Ze li ntawmib nrab ntawm lub ntiaj teb cov khaub ncaws yog ua los ntawm polyester thiab Greenpeace kwv yees tus nqi no yuav luag ob npaug los ntawm 2030. Vim li cas? Kev sib tw kis las yog ib qho ntawm cov laj thawj tseem ceeb hauv qab nws: ntau tus neeg siv khoom tau saib rau cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho ntau dua. Qhov teeb meem yog, polyester tsis yog ib qho kev xaiv textile ruaj khov, vim nws yog tsim los ntawm polyethylene terephthalate (PET), hom yas ntau tshaj plaws hauv ntiaj teb. Hauv luv luv, feem ntau ntawm peb cov khaub ncaws yog los ntawm cov roj crude, thaum lub Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) tab tom hu rau kev ua phem heev kom lub ntiaj teb kub kom siab tshaj 1.5 ° C saum toj no pre-industrial theem.

Peb xyoos dhau los, lub koom haum non-profit Textile Exchange tau sib tw ntau dua 50 lub tuam txhab textile, khaub ncaws thiab khw muag khoom (xws li cov tuam txhab loj xws li Adidas, H&M, Gap thiab Ikea) kom nce lawv cov kev siv polyester rov qab los ntawm 25 feem pua ​​​​los ntawm 2020. Nws ua haujlwm: lub hli dhau los , lub koom haum tau tshaj tawm tsab ntawv ua kev zoo siab tias cov neeg kos npe tsis tau tsuas yog ua tau raws li lub hom phiaj ob xyoos ua ntej hnub kawg, lawv tau ua dhau los ntawm kev nce lawv cov kev siv. rov siv dua polyester los ntawm 36 feem pua. Tsis tas li ntawd, kaum ob lub tuam txhab ntxiv tau cog lus los koom nrog kev sib tw xyoo no. Lub koom haum kwv yees 20 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov polyester yuav tsum tau siv dua los ntawm 2030.

Recycled polyester, tseem hu ua rPET, yog tau los ntawm melting cov yas uas twb muaj lawm thiab rov tig nws mus rau hauv polyester fiber tshiab. Txawm hais tias muaj kev saib xyuas ntau rau rPET ua los ntawm lub raj mis yas thiab cov thawv pov tseg los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom, qhov tseeb polyethylene terephthalate tuaj yeem rov ua dua los ntawm cov khoom siv tom qab kev lag luam thiab cov khoom siv tom qab. Tab sis, tsuas yog muab piv txwv, tsib lub fwj dej qab zib tau txais fiber ntau txaus rau ib lub tsho T-shirt loj ntxiv.

Txawm tiasrecycling yassuab zoo li lub tswv yim zoo indisputable, rPET kev ua koob tsheej yog deb ntawm kev tsis sib haum xeeb nyob rau hauv lub zej zog fashionable. FashionUnited tau sau cov lus sib cav tseem ceeb los ntawm ob tog.

Recycled polyester: qhov zoo

1. Khaws cov yas kom tsis txhob mus pov tseg thiab dej hiav txwv-Recycled polyester muab lub neej thib ob rau cov khoom siv uas tsis yog biodegradable thiab lwm yam yuav xaus rau hauv qhov chaw pov tseg lossis dej hiav txwv. Raws li lub NGO Ocean Conservancy, 8 lab metric tons ntawm cov yas nkag mus rau hauv dej hiav txwv txhua xyoo, nyob rau saum toj ntawm kwv yees li 150 lab metric tons uas tam sim no ncig hauv marine ib puag ncig. Yog tias peb ua raws li qhov no, los ntawm 2050 yuav muaj cov yas hauv dej hiav txwv ntau dua li ntses. Yas tau pom nyob rau hauv 60 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov seabirds thiab 100 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov hiav txwv vaub kib hom, vim lawv yuam kev yas rau zaub mov.

Raws li kev pov tseg, Tebchaws Meskas Lub Chaw Tiv Thaiv Ib puag ncig tau tshaj tawm tias lub tebchaws cov chaw pov tseg tau txais 26 lab tons ntawm cov yas hauv xyoo 2015 ib leeg. EU kwv yees tib qhov nyiaj yuav tsum tau tsim txhua xyoo los ntawm nws cov tswv cuab. Khaub ncaws yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm qhov teeb meem: nyob rau hauv UK, ib tsab ntawv ceeb toom los ntawm Lub Tsev Haujlwm Saib Xyuas Kev Ruaj Ntseg thiab Kev Pabcuam Kev Ua Haujlwm (WRAP) kwv yees tias kwv yees li 140 lab phaus tus nqi ntawm cov khaub ncaws xaus rau hauv qhov chaw pov tseg txhua xyoo. Karla Magruder, Pawg Thawj Coj ntawm Textile Exchange tau hais hauv email rau FashionUnited, "Kev noj cov khoom pov tseg thiab hloov mus rau hauv cov khoom siv tseem ceeb yog qhov tseem ceeb heev rau tib neeg thiab peb ib puag ncig,"

2. rPET yog ib yam zoo li nkauj xwb polyester, tab sis yuav siv sij hawm tsawg zog los ua - Recycled polyester yuav luag tib yam li nkauj xwb polyester hais txog qhov zoo, tab sis nws cov khoom yuav tsum tau 59 feem pua ​​tsawg zog piv rau nkauj xwb polyester, raws li kev tshawb fawb 2017. los ntawm Swiss Federal Office for the Environment. WRAP kwv yees rPET cov khoom tsim los txo CO2 emissions los ntawm 32 feem pua ​​​​hauv kev sib piv rau cov polyester li niaj zaus. "Yog tias koj saib ntawm kev ntsuas lub neej, rPET tau qhab nia zoo dua li PET nkauj xwb," Magruder ntxiv.

Tsis tas li ntawd, cov khoom siv polyester rov ua dua tuaj yeem pab txo qis kev rho tawm cov roj av thiab cov pa roj av los ntawm lub ntiaj teb los ua cov yas ntau dua. "Siv cov polyester rov ua dua ua rau peb txo peb txoj kev cia siab rau roj av raws li cov khoom siv raw," hais tias lub vev xaib ntawm sab nraum zoov hom Patagonia, paub zoo tshaj plaws rau kev ua cov ntaub los ntawm cov dej qab zib fwj, cov khoom siv tsis zoo thiab cov ris tsho hnav. "Nws txwv tsis pub pov tseg, yog li ua kom lub neej pov tseg ntev dua thiab txo cov pa phem los ntawm lub tshuab hluav taws xob. Nws kuj tseem pab txhawb nqa cov kwj tshiab tshiab rau cov khaub ncaws polyester uas tsis hnav ntxiv lawm, ”nws hais ntxiv rau daim ntawv lo.

"Vim tias polyester muaj kwv yees li 60 feem pua ​​​​ntawm lub ntiaj teb kev tsim PET - kwv yees li ob npaug ntawm cov khoom siv hauv lub raj mis yas - tsim cov khoom siv tsis yog nkauj xwb rau polyester fiber muaj peev xwm ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam loj rau ntiaj teb lub zog thiab cov kev xav tau," argues American apparel brand. Nau, tseem paub txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev xaiv cov ntaub ntawv ruaj khov.

Recycled polyester: cov cons

1. Recycling muaj nws cov kev txwv -Ntau cov khaub ncaws tsis yog tsim los ntawm polyester ib leeg, tab sis yog los ntawm kev sib xyaw ntawm polyester thiab lwm yam ntaub ntawv. Nyob rau hauv tas li ntawd, nws yog qhov nyuaj dua, yog tias tsis ua tsis tau, rov ua dua lawv. "Qee zaum, nws yog technically ua tau, piv txwv li blends nrog polyester thiab paj rwb. Tab sis nws tseem nyob rau theem pilot. Qhov kev sib tw yog nrhiav cov txheej txheem uas tuaj yeem ntsuas tau zoo thiab peb tseem tsis tau nyob ntawd, "said Magruder rau Suston Magazine hauv 2017. Qee qhov laminations thiab tiav siv rau cov ntaub tuaj yeem ua rau lawv tsis tuaj yeem rov ua dua.

Txawm tias cov khaub ncaws uas yog 100 feem pua ​​​​polyester tsis tuaj yeem rov ua dua mus ib txhis. Muaj ob txoj hauv kev los siv PET: mechanically thiab chemically. "Kev siv tshuab rov ua dua tshiab yog siv lub raj mis yas, ntxuav nws, txiav nws thiab muab nws rov qab rau hauv polyester nti, uas tom qab ntawd dhau los ntawm cov txheej txheem ua fiber ntau. Kev siv tshuaj lom neeg yog siv cov khoom pov tseg yas thiab xa rov qab mus rau nws cov qub monomers, uas yog indistinguishable los ntawm nkauj xwb polyester. Cov ntawd tuaj yeem rov qab mus rau hauv cov txheej txheem tsim khoom polyester li niaj zaus, ”Magruder piav qhia rau FashionUnited. Feem ntau rPET tau txais los ntawm kev siv tshuab rov ua dua tshiab, vim nws yog qhov pheej yig tshaj ntawm ob txheej txheem thiab yuav tsum tsis muaj tshuaj lom neeg dua li cov tshuaj ntxuav tes uas xav tau los ntxuav cov ntaub ntawv nkag. Txawm li cas los xij, "los ntawm cov txheej txheem no, cov fiber ntau tuaj yeem poob nws lub zog thiab yog li yuav tsum tau tov nrog nkauj xwb," sau tseg Swiss Federal Office for the Environment.

"Feem ntau cov neeg ntseeg tias cov yas tuaj yeem rov ua dua tshiab tsis kawg, tab sis txhua zaus cov yas tau rhuab nws degenerates, yog li tom qab iteration ntawm cov polymer yog degraded thiab cov yas yuav tsum tau siv los ua cov khoom tsis zoo," said Patty Grossman, co-founder ntawm Ob tug viv ncaus Ecotextiles, hauv email rau FashionUnited. Textile Txauv, txawm li cas los xij, hais hauv nws lub vev xaib tias rPET tuaj yeem siv tau ntau xyoo: "cov ris tsho los ntawm cov khoom siv polyester ua kom rov ua dua tshiab tsis tu ncua tsis muaj qhov tsis zoo", sau lub koom haum, ntxiv tias polyester garment voj voog muaj peev xwm los ua " ib lub voj kaw kaw "ib hnub.

Cov nram qab no Grossman txoj kev xav tau sib cav tias lub ntiaj teb yuav tsum tsim thiab haus cov yas tsawg dua. Yog tias cov pej xeem ntseeg tias txhua yam lawv muab pov tseg tuaj yeem rov ua dua tshiab, lawv yuav pom tsis muaj teeb meem txuas ntxiv mus noj cov khoom yas pov tseg. Hmoov tsis zoo, tsuas yog ib feem me me ntawm cov yas peb siv tau rov siv dua. Hauv Tebchaws Meskas, tsuas yog 9 feem pua ​​​​ntawm tag nrho cov yas tau rov ua dua xyoo 2015, raws li US Environmental Protection Agency.

Cov neeg hu xov tooj rau kev ua koob tsheej tsawg dua ntawm rPET tiv thaiv tias cov hom zam thiab cov neeg yuav khoom yuav tsum raug txhawb kom nyiam cov fibers ntuj ntau li ntau tau. Tom qab tag nrho, txawm hais tias rPET siv 59 feem pua ​​​​tsawg zog los tsim dua li polyester nkauj xwb, nws tseem xav tau ntau zog dua li hemp, ntaub plaub thiab ob qho tib si organic thiab paj rwb, raws li 2010 tsab ntawv ceeb toom los ntawm Stockholm Environment Institute.